The Fashion Rental Market Tested and Explained: Who Has the Best Service? | Fashion-Tech | BoF - The Business of Fashion |
- The Fashion Rental Market Tested and Explained: Who Has the Best Service? | Fashion-Tech | BoF - The Business of Fashion
- Cats, shoes, Kardashians -- how fashion embraced the meme - CNN
- 'More than trendy': Fashion truck opens brick-and-mortar location - The Bozeman Daily Chronicle
- From the United States to Europe: fashion trade ends 2019 marked by ups and downs - MDS
| Posted: 04 Feb 2020 09:45 PM PST NEW YORK, United States — Renting clothes is trendy. But is it worth your time? Over the last few years, fashion rental services have popped up to tempt every conceivable type of consumer. The concept was pioneered by Rent the Runway a decade ago, and that start-up's success has inspired brands as diverse as Ann Taylor, Bloomingdale's and Scotch & Soda to give it a go. Every subscription claims to provide a bottomless closet. But do any actually live up to that promise? I was eager to find out, both as a fashion reporter and the target customer for many of these services: a Millennial New Yorker who loves clothes but tries to avoid fast fashion. Two years after having my son, most of my clothes still didn't fit, so I was looking forward to experimenting with new styles and sizes, especially on BoF's dime. I signed up for five services to see whether the reality of fashion rentals matched the hype. I chose Rent the Runway and Le Tote, the two market leaders. Banana Republic and Vince use the same white-label rental platform to rent out clothes at vastly different price points. Finally, there was Urban Outfitters Inc.'s Nuuly, one of the few instances where a brand built its own rental service from scratch, even opening a new warehouse. I signed up to these services as a regular subscriber to ensure I received the standard customer experience. I later reached out to each company in my capacity as a reporter to better understand what went right — and wrong. A few months into the experiment, it is clear that the fashion rental market has a long way to go before it fulfils its promise of the infinite closet. With service after service, I encountered the same issues: underwhelming selection, slow shipping and confusing charges to my credit card. I spent plenty of time on the phone with customer service. Service: Rent the Runway I signed up for Rent the Runway for September and October. The platform carries over 500 designers and I was excited to rent from ones that are out of my budget like Rebecca Taylor, Zimmermann, Jason Wu, Tibi and Ulla Johnson. Rent the Runway has had some supply chain difficulties, but I found the rental process to be seamless. Its site is easy to navigate and the clothes always arrived clean and ironed. Shipping was fast and reliable, and I received emails and texts when items were sent out or received back. As for the clothes themselves, Rent the Runway has a seemingly endless supply of peplum dresses, ruffle tops, statement jeans, off-the-shoulder tops and other trendy items. Muted, elevated basics were harder to find. There were definitely items I loved, including a fun dress from The Kooples I wore to an office dinner. But overall it was hard to find clothes in my style for my everyday wardrobe. Other subscribers recommended I keep "liking" clothing on the site and filling out my wishlist. The algorithm is supposed to get better at serving up the right styles with more interactions. But I was spending hours on the app — more time than I would to shop for the same clothes online. Toward the end of my second month, I put my subscription on hold and received an email confirmation. I only read the subject line; what I missed was a message informing me that my membership would be automatically renewed in a month. After my card was charged, I called customer service, which gave me a refund. Other subscribers have complained about this practice to the Better Business Bureau, where Rent the Runway has a D-minus rating. A Rent the Runway spokesperson told me that the company is "constantly innovating our service." In July, it debuted separate email addresses that subscribers could contact to pause or cancel their membership. Most of the BBB complaints were made before this change. The Verdict: Now that I know how to cancel my subscription, I would resubscribe when I need outfits for special occasions. Service: Vince Unfold With the chic, minimalist Vince, I was at least spared having to sort through more ruffle tops. The service, launched in November 2018, promises "access to endless styles." That promise proved largely theoretical. After signing up, I was instructed to make a list of items I liked. I eagerly added beautiful silk blouses, cashmere sweaters, shift dresses and fun peacoats to my wishlist. Vince then selects four of the 10 items to send me. I've read and reread Vince Unfold's "How it Works" page, and it's not obvious that the service operates under a "mystery box" model. Like many brands that have launched rental services, Vince Unfold is operated by New York-based Caastle. Caastle's Chief Executive, Christine Hunsicker, told me that "members prefer being able to set up a closet and have shipments flow without the added work needed to manage each and every box," comparing the system to Netflix's DVD queue.  Looks from the Vince Unfold service. | Courtesy Hunsicker has a point — I did spend hours on Rent the Runway, choosing my shipments — but I wasn't thrilled about paying to rent clothes I couldn't even choose. Hunsicker said the company doesn't assume subscribers are expecting to choose their own clothes, so it doesn't spell out that the service ultimately picks which items to send. The system has a prioritization tool, where you can request to move items up the queue, but even those items are not guaranteed. She said Caastle will roll out a new feature this year for subscribers who do want to choose their own items. A spokesperson for Vince told me in an email that it is "actively working with the Caastle team to identify opportunities to help improve the Unfold experience." I compiled my wishlist on a Sunday and received an email that night that my package was being prepared. My package didn't ship until that Thursday, and the clothes arrived the following Monday. Caastle technically met its goal to ship out boxes within three days, but the logistics felt slow in the age of Amazon. Plus, I was paying for Vince Unfold by the month, so every day counted. Of the four items I received — a white silk button-down, black cargo pants, a maroon t-shirt and a camel cashmere sweater — only the sweater fit. I sent back the others but never received a new box. Hunsicker informed me that unlike Rent the Runway, all four Vince items had to be returned together. I also could have clicked a "Return Notify" button on the service's site to prompt Caastle to send out a new box. Hunsicker said Caastle needs to "tighten its language on the Return Notify." In the end, I had paid $160 to rent one item. To be fair, I did love the Vince sweater — I wore it five times — but could have spent a similar amount to buy a sweater from another brand. The Verdict: My experience might have turned out differently if I'd understood the service's rules from the outset. However, the process could be more user-friendly and it seems unlikely I am the only confused customer, given that we are trained to expect easy, one-click shopping. Service: Nuuly In its ads on Facebook, Nuuly says I can rent "$1000s worth of amazing party dresses, going out tops, premium denim for only $88/month from 100s of brands." Urban Outfitters Inc. built its own rental service and operates its own warehouse; it stocks clothes from its flagship brand, plus Free People, and Anthropologie, as well as brands like Levi's and Paige. On paper, it sounded like a budget version of Rent the Runway. And that's more or less how it played out.  An outfit from Nuuly. | Source: Courtesy Much of Nuuly's selection appeared to draw from Anthropologie. I rented two fun, colourful dresses from that brand, perfect for a weekend trip to Miami, plus a black cashmere sweater (also from Anthropologie) and a tweed dress from Gal Meets Glam, an influencer fashion line, which looked perfect to wear to my synagogue. However, a pair of plaid Ralph Lauren pants didn't fit, and a pair of jeans smelled like lighter fluid. Nuuly doesn't accept exchanges, however; unlike other services, the six items a month are a hard cap. When asked about my odd-smelling jeans, a Nuuly spokesperson told me clothes are inspected before they ship, including a smell test. However, "this does occasionally happen with garments that come directly from warehouses and manufacturers due to dyes, packaging and other factors." She added that allowing customers to exchange items that don't fit "increases overall business expense, and we wanted to launch with a model that created opportunity for long-term health and continued growth of our brand." The Verdict: Nuuly offers the best bang for your buck, especially when taking into account that, given the slow turnaround at some of the other services, six items a month isn't so limiting. I would consider resubscribing, although not being able to exchange an item is a drawback. Nuuly's customer service was excellent; though I had used my shipping label to return the two pairs of pants, the company sent me a second one for free. Service: Le Tote I'd heard great things from friends who use Le Tote for maternity clothes and was eager to find a few workwear options. However, I found Le Tote's inventory selection to be the most underwhelming of the five services I tested. Jumpsuits featured garish prints and the dresses were matronly. Eventually, I settled on a black jumpsuit, two sweaters, and a floral skirt. Le Tote mainly carries brands one might find at a mid-priced department store, such as French Connection and Max Studio (this is no coincidence — Le Tote bought Lord & Taylor in August). Two of the four items didn't fit, and I sent them back. The company immediately charged my credit card for the two items I had kept, even though I had another three weeks to return them. I learned from a customer service representative that all items must be returned together (this information is on Le Tote's website, but users must click through the site's Frequently Asked Questions tabs to see it). Le Tote issued a refund, but I had to ship the items back at my own expense, and paid $20 in postage. I cancelled my subscription. A Le Tote spokesperson said the company operates this way because many subscribers buy their rented clothes, making automatic charges the "easier" option. The spokesperson said the company is considering whether to cover return costs if subscribers find themselves in a similar situation. The Verdict: Free shipping and returns are major expenses for a start-up. However, it would have been worth eating that cost if it convinced me to stick with the service longer. Le Tote's inventory wasn't compelling, either; for the price of the monthly subscription, I could buy similar clothing at T.J. Maxx or Macy's (or even Lord & Taylor). Service: Banana Republic Style Passport Banana Republic was a store I religiously shopped at in high school, and then sort of forgot about (like Vince and Ann Taylor, Banana Republic started its rental service while in the middle of a turnaround). I signed up for the site but immediately cringed when I saw it, too, is managed by Caastle, which meant I couldn't choose the items I was renting. Having been through the blind box experience with Vince already, I only added clothing to my wishlist that I knew I would love. My order on Tuesday arrived the following Monday. Nothing fit from my first box — a black sweater, a checkered blazer, and a velvet blouse. This time, I used the Return Notify button to inform Caastle I was sending back clothing and received a new box less than a week later. This shipment came with a billowing floral dress, a mock turtleneck dress and a knitted pleated skirt. I was pleasantly surprised and made a mental note to start shopping at Banana Republic again. Like other rental services, I had the option to buy the clothes I rented at a discount, and I kept the skirt. A Banana Republic spokesperson in an email thanked me for my feedback and said the company's "goal is to make the process... seamless for customers." The Verdict: I would consider resubscribing to Banana Republic because its clothing and price point were a good match for me. However, I'll wait until Caastle allows me to choose specific items to rent. Renting Made Me Want to Go…. Shopping? In my adventures in the rental market, I learned that not every company can or should be playing in the space. There are trade-offs when balancing affordability, convenience and selection. "We've taken a bet that people would rather have higher quality clothing with less control," said Hunsicker, Caastle's CEO. "It's a tension of control versus quality." Caastle lets Vince and Banana Republic fans rent for a fraction of the price, but their services come with rules that hinder the experience. After renting jeans from Nuuly that reeked of chemicals, I was reminded of Rent the Runway founder Jennifer Hyman's comments on how being in the rental business essentially means operating as a dry cleaner. Nuuly has only been around for six months, and though it got some things right out of the gate, it clearly has to work out some kinks. Rent the Runway and Le Tote have been around for years but still don't provide clothing to match their customers' diverse tastes. My expectations for the other four services were built off of my Rent the Runway experience. However, these companies launched following the success of that start-up. So far at least, none can match Rent the Runway's clothes or its convenience. Ironically, my attempts to use rentals to build my infinite closet left me dying to go shopping — maybe even in a real, brick-and-mortar store. Constantly updating my wishlist, waiting for packages and shipping them back was exhausting. As Eugene Rabkin, editor of StyleZeitgeist magazine, argued in an Op-Ed for BoF in November, there's a "deep pleasure in ownership, not just the fleeting pleasure of acquisition but also the lasting pleasure of possession." Related articles: Everyone Is Launching Rental Services. Is There Enough Demand? Mall Brands Are Entering the Rental Market. Can the Model Work? The Clothing Rental Market's Broadening Appeal Rent the Runway CEO on Underestimating the Fashion Rental Market  |
| Cats, shoes, Kardashians -- how fashion embraced the meme - CNN Posted: 05 Feb 2020 03:56 AM PST The fashion industry -- with its close relationship to celebrity and pop culture -- finds itself at home in the world of online memes. Some say the first fashion meme may have originated with none other than Jennifer Lopez and the striking green Versace dress she wore to the Grammys in 2000. With so many people looking for it online, the dress helped the fashion industry grasp the power of the internet, and inspired Google to invent Image Search. Some memes are created from funny, accidental moments; others are clever Photoshop jobs (see Rihanna's 2015 Met Gala gown turned into scrambled eggs and omelets). And, inevitably, people have tried -- with varying degrees of success -- to manufacture viral moments. In 2014, Paper magazine claimed it would publish something so explosive it would "break the internet." Naturally, they tried to do it with Kim Kardashian -- shot by legendary photographer Jean-Paul Goude. One cover shows her posing nearly naked, another clad in a figure-hugging black gown and balancing a glass of champagne on her famous behind. While the internet remains still very much intact, the phrase "break the internet" became shorthand for something that goes next-level viral.  Rihanna's Met Gala gown by Chinese designer Guo Pei, inspired many egg-themed memes. Since then, memes have continued to evolve and even fashion powerhouses like Gucci -- which back in 2017 used them to sell luxury watches -- are banking on meme power as a marketing tool. One thing that hasn't changed though: 20 years later, J-Lo can still pull off that green dress.  |
| Posted: 05 Feb 2020 11:00 PM PST  Bozeman's popular pink fashion truck has transformed into a just as pink brick-and-mortar location with a lot more options. Catch Boutique held its grand opening, complete with mimosas, last Saturday at its new spot inside The Market on Huffine Lane. Owned by Kelley Krekelberg, Catch is the brick-and-mortar sibling to Vogue Mobile Fashion Truck, which Krekelberg opened in 2016. "I wanted to have trendy, affordable (clothes)," Krekelberg said. "More than trendy — trend forward, following L.A. trends at a really affordable price point." Advertisement Catch is full of modern clothes, hats and jewelry, with everything from lavender cropped sweaters to faux leather pants up for grabs. Krekelberg said she loved running Vogue Mobile, but when the city changed its rules for mobile vendors in 2017 it became harder to make sales during prime hours. In March 2017, the Bozeman City Commission passed an ordinance limiting hours that vending trucks, like the fashion truck or food trucks, can operate on Main Street. Vending trucks aren't allowed on Main Street between Grand and Church avenues between 10 a.m. and 9 p.m. Vending trucks are permitted in that area between 9 p.m. and 2:30 a.m., prime time for bar-goers to grab food on the way home but maybe less so for the fashion-forward to browse the curated items in the fashion truck. "The truck is really cool and it's a passion of mine," Krekelberg said. "I had the right product and the right clientele ... I just needed to have my own home." Vogue Mobile Fashion Truck will still come out at farmer's markets and other similar events when the weather is good, Krekelberg said. "The purpose behind a fashion truck is to meet the people where they are," Krekelberg said. That shift was the big push to move to the brick-and-mortar store, she said, but it does come with some other upsides. For instance, now Krekelberg can carry seasonal pieces like sweaters and puffy jackets, items that were too bulky to fit well in the truck. Krekelberg picks out all the pieces available at Catch based on the color and silhouette. Some pieces she said are popular now are cropped puffy jackets, thin-collared blazers and high-waisted everything. The store's selection is aimed toward younger customers, Krekelberg said, mostly women between 25 and 35, but it's open to anyone who is interested. One of the big things that sets Catch apart from other local boutiques, aside from the selection, is the pricing. "That's the main thing," she said. "You can buy a whole outfit for $80."  |
| From the United States to Europe: fashion trade ends 2019 marked by ups and downs - MDS Posted: 06 Feb 2020 12:07 AM PST
The fashion trade ends a year, marked by ups and downs in its main markets. In the eurozone, the sales of the sector experienced a recovery in 2019 while in the United States, fashion sales have ended in the red. In eurozone countries, fashion trade has ended 2019 with an increase of 0.3%, according to data from the European statistical agency Eurostat. This increase differentiates from the result of the previous year when the fashion trade in the countries of the region recorded a fall of 1.6%. In the European Union as a whole, the revenue of the sector rose by 0.9% in 2019, compared to a 0.6% decrease from a year ago. In 2019, almost all the countries of the European Union have seen a positive evolution in their fashion sales. The biggest increases have been marked by Romania, with a rise of 10.5%, Lithuania, with an increase of 9.5% and Portugal, where the sector has increased its sales by 6.8%. In 2019, almost all the countries of the European Union have seen a positive evolution in their fashion salesIn Spain, fashion sales in 2019 saw an increase of 1.4%, in comparison to the 1.5% the previous year, while in the United Kingdom grew by 1.5%, compared to the fall of 0.3% in 2018. In parallel, Germany's fashion trade continued to fall in 2019, with a decrease of 1.1% in line with the 2.5% drop from the previous year. The rest of the countries where fashion sales shrank in 2019 were Belgium and Switzerland, where the sector fell 0.8%, respectively accumulating four years of decline, and 3.5%. In Spain, fashion sales rose 1.4% in 2019 In the United States, on the other hand, sales of fashion garments, accessories, and footwear, ended 2019 with a 0.6% decrease, according to data from the United States Census Bureau. Although in the main markets of Latin America the year-end data has not yet been revealed, the fashion sector in Brazil and in Mexico expects to end 2019 with positive development. Fashion sales in Brazil face the final stretch of the year with positivity, with a 2% growth in their revenue in November, according to data from the Brazilian Institute of Geography and Statistics. In Mexico, on the other hand, the sales of the sector registered an increase of 1.7% in November, its biggest monthly increase in more than three years, according to the annual report published by the national statistics agency Inegi.  |
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